NEW RELEASE: Here is another fun conversion to needlework! Based on the artwork of Shelley McVittie, this one has some great detail - including layers of beads for the blackberries "Soft Landings" Stitch Count: 140W x 160H |
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Cross-stitching can be a very
rewarding & fun pastime. It`s one of the few crafts one can enjoy & feel confident about the finished results. Unleash Your Creative Side With Cross Stitch Patterns by Shelley McVittie |
the Adventurers Stitch Count - 166 H x 122 W Chart only $12 |
Afternoon Delight Stitch Count - 155 W. x 192 H Chart only $12 |
And Sew On Stitch Count - 273W x 120 H Cross Stitch Tips & Tricks at bottom of page!
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the Inside Story Stitch Count - 262 W x 228 Chart only $12 |
His Story Stitch Count - 124 H x 112 W Chart only $12 |
Her Story Stitch Count - 124 H x 112 W Chart only $12 |
the Bookends Stitch Count - 140 H x 300 W |
the Sewing Lesson Stitch Count - 224W x 285H Chart only $12 |
His Swing Stitch Count: 161 H x 117 W Chart only $12 |
Her Swing Stitch Count: 161 H x 117 W Chart only $12 |
Slicker Parade Stitch Count: 119 H x 315 W Chart only $12 |
Piccadilly Lane Stitch Count: 280W x 110H Chart only $12 
Line Gallery Stitch Count: 154 H x 280 W Chart only$12 |
When All the World Stitch Count: 118 H x 304 W 
Twas Twilight on Main Street Stitch Count: 90 H x 262 W Chart only $12 |
Please, Mr. Postman Stitch Count: 140 H x 216 W Chart only $12 
Nearly Christmas Stitch Count: 94 H x 196 W Chart only $12 |
Will You? Stitch Count 170h x 92W Chart only $12 |
Quilted 1 Stitch Count: 95 H x 69 W each one. Chart only $12 
Quilted 2 Stitch Count: 95 H x 69 W each one. Chart only $12 |
little booklet of monthly projects just waiting for a mind to cultivate its creativity
Contains 12 images to create over the next year into: 12 uniquely stitched cards • 12 lovely napkins or tea towels • 12 little pillows • or scrapbook with the finished results and leave your own historical mark to last generations. Recommended for age 10+ Reg: $11.95 Sale $6.00 |
CROSS STITCHING TIPS & TRICKS:
# 1
Don’t cut your floss too long. A 16- to 18-inch length is perfect. It won’t get too tangled, but you won’t be re-threading needles too often either.
# 2
Separate the length of floss into individual threads.
The popular cotton flosses from DMC, and Crescent Colors are 6-ply threads. If I am stitching on fabrics that are 14-count or 28-count (over two), or a tighter weave, I separate into 6 strands and then reassemble into 3 2-strand sets. If I am stitching on fabrics with a looser weave, I reassemble into 2 3-strand sets.
# 3
Straighten the floss by dampening it. As part of the separating step, I also dampen the floss and pull it straight to get rid of any kinks or twists.
As I separate the strands, I lay them out flat and by the time I begin to reassemble them they are dry.
Use a little plastic rectangular box with a sponge in it. You get the sponge wet, simply pull the 6-strand length of floss across the top – and voila, it’s damp but not too wet. The plastic box has a lid, so the sponge stays damp.
# 4
Make your stitches consistent. In other words, make sure the top “cross” stitches all go in the same direction. I typically begin a stitch from upper left
down to lower right, and complete it from upper
right to lower left.
#5.
Complete one stitch at a time if you are using an overdyed, variegated floss. This makes the subtle color changes more visible in your stitching. However, if you’re using solid-color floss, you can do the first part of the stitch for an entire row and then go back and do the top cross stitch.
If you have a large area to fill in, this makes a lovelier finish because the floss lies more evenly and flat.
# 6.
Use a hoop. a spring hoop, or a tension screw-hoop will work fine. You can certainly stitch without a hoop, but I think the stitching turns out neater if you use one. My preferred hoop is a 5-inch spring hoop. It allows for a large enough area for stitching, is easy to put on/take off, and is small for travelling
# 1
Don’t cut your floss too long. A 16- to 18-inch length is perfect. It won’t get too tangled, but you won’t be re-threading needles too often either.
# 2
Separate the length of floss into individual threads.
The popular cotton flosses from DMC, and Crescent Colors are 6-ply threads. If I am stitching on fabrics that are 14-count or 28-count (over two), or a tighter weave, I separate into 6 strands and then reassemble into 3 2-strand sets. If I am stitching on fabrics with a looser weave, I reassemble into 2 3-strand sets.
# 3
Straighten the floss by dampening it. As part of the separating step, I also dampen the floss and pull it straight to get rid of any kinks or twists.
As I separate the strands, I lay them out flat and by the time I begin to reassemble them they are dry.
Use a little plastic rectangular box with a sponge in it. You get the sponge wet, simply pull the 6-strand length of floss across the top – and voila, it’s damp but not too wet. The plastic box has a lid, so the sponge stays damp.
# 4
Make your stitches consistent. In other words, make sure the top “cross” stitches all go in the same direction. I typically begin a stitch from upper left
down to lower right, and complete it from upper
right to lower left.
#5.
Complete one stitch at a time if you are using an overdyed, variegated floss. This makes the subtle color changes more visible in your stitching. However, if you’re using solid-color floss, you can do the first part of the stitch for an entire row and then go back and do the top cross stitch.
If you have a large area to fill in, this makes a lovelier finish because the floss lies more evenly and flat.
# 6.
Use a hoop. a spring hoop, or a tension screw-hoop will work fine. You can certainly stitch without a hoop, but I think the stitching turns out neater if you use one. My preferred hoop is a 5-inch spring hoop. It allows for a large enough area for stitching, is easy to put on/take off, and is small for travelling